The key features to look for when examining weather patterns in Australia and
around the world for good surfing conditions are areas of low pressure systems that generate long groundswells. The low pressure
systems involve 'fetches' which are where swells originate due to extremely high winds and active surface conditions in the
ocean. When surfers study the weather a low pressure system that generates swell towards the coastline is usually a good sign
in terms of waves on the horizon. The key however to whether these swells produce prime surfing conditions is related to the
wind, primarily its strength and direction. Offhsore winds are ideal for any surfing location as the winds come from inland
and smooth the seas to perfect the shape of the waves. For example on the east coast of Australia offshore winds come from
the west, therefore winds from the south-west to north-west usually provide descent conditions for surfers. When winds are
onshore, the ocean predominantly transforms into an ugly mess, as it looks bumpy and is difficult to ride for any surfer.
These are the two key features to look for when examining weather patterns and synoptic charts to determine swell conditions.
It must be noted to remember that winds travel anti-clockwise in a low pressure system and clockwise in a high pressure system.
Another factor to keep an eye out for when predicting surfing conditions is the period between
waves. This is the time it takes between the crests of two waves to move past a point. The longer the period the more powerful
the swell as there is more water pushing towards the coast from the ocean. A period of anywhere between 6-10 seconds is ideal
for beginners wanting to learn to surf. This is in comparison to the big wave arena's of Mexico and Hawaii where the period
during their surf season is consistently between 14-20 seconds which gives you an idea of the difference that can occur around
the world. In Australia the wave period rarely goes above 12. This information hopefully provides some assistance next time
in predicting the surf to have an enjoyable time.
